no-weld bar clamp
I am no exception.
So I decided to try to do something (
Bar clips in particular).
There are several teaching aids and DIY clips on the Internet, but they are mainly wooden and have a full set
The length of the threaded rod or the required welding.
The following steps are the version I have tried to make a project that only requires very few special tools or equipment, uses materials that are easy to buy and avoids the items mentioned earlier.
Hopefully these images and videos will help illustrate some of the steps I\'m trying to explain. Enjoy!
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I will draw you a 1-
Tools: supply: Hardware: almost everything listed can be swapped with something similar.
Use something or any tool you already have to do the job.
Cut the 1 \"x 1\" square steel pipe to the desired fixture length.
Keep in mind that the head chin and back chin take up space for the length of the bar, so add a few inches to make up for this space.
Next, use a file or grinding wheel to remove burrs at the end.
You can finish if you really want.
I did not open the door.
We now need to drill holes in the lower side of the rod for our 1/2 \"hex screws.
These will be used as plugs, after moving the rear claws to the position and tightening the fixture, keep the rear claws in the appropriate position.
The holes of the hex screws need to be smaller than the screws themselves so that the threads can grab some metal so that they do not rotate or come out.
I pitch my hex screw to 3/4 \".
These may be more or less spaced depending on the travel distance of your head chin Bolt (
My travel distance is 1 \"and I used 3.
75 \"my handle bolts, I suggest a longer period of time.
I wiped all the grease and metal scraps and put a layer of rust on the tubing --Oleum.
After drying, insert a hex screw of 1/2.
Tighten the screw and rotate the hexagonal head so that the edge of the plane is perpendicular to the length of the rod.
Make sure you don\'t over-
Rotate and peel the internal thread that causes the screw to loosen.
The head claw is the fixed end and will contain our tightening knob and bolts.
The main body will be a small piece of wood about 1 \"x1. 75\"x2\".
Depending on the type of knob and bolt you purchased, the size may vary.
After cutting (I used the puzzle.
Drilling through the center is required (
1 \"x2\" face)so a 3/8\" T-
Nuts can be inserted on each side to guide our 3/8 bolts through the block of wood.
Next, two steel plates are cut to reinforce the block and attach it to the bar.
I made my width the same as the block of wood, but let it extend 1 inch long on the side of the bar (1. 75\"x3\").
I used a metal gauge light enough so I could cut these with a metal cutting blade with a jigsaw puzzle.
After removing the edge burrs, place a steel plate on each side of the bar and clip the block in the middle.
Place the steel plate on both sides with wooden blocks and bars in the middle.
Drill holes for your machine screws.
I put two through the bar, two through the block (
One above the bolt channel and one below).
Insert the machine screw and tighten the nut.
To complete this step, please screw the 3/8 bolt through t-
Star knob at the end of the nut and threaded bolt.
Add some thread lockers and fix the knob on the bolts.
The rear jaw will be your removable part for receiving the part you want to clamp.
This requires a block of wood. 5\"x1.
5 \"x 1\" and sheet metal for two guided movements (
See picture for size).
After cutting the metal plates and blocks, drill a hole in the plates and blocks and fix them together.
Drill another hole through one side of the metal plate/Block and insert a small wooden screw.
The wooden screw will keep the block not rotating (
No need to use the screws and nuts of another machine).
Next, drill holes for another machine screw, nut and washer through the farthest corner of the metal plate.
When pressure is applied, this screw holds the chin to the hex screw on the lower side of the rod.
Put into use now!
Make one and post a picture using the \"I make it\" feature.
Add suggestions for improvement, ask me questions and comment.
I tried a different head for tightening the end of the bolt but thought the bare 3/8 Bolt Head worked best.
I polished it down to make it smooth.
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