switchable dual-voltage (3.3v/5v) hacduino

by:Pat Hei Gate Hardware     2020-01-26
For easy assembly, we will build our Hackett in sections.
Select one end of the strip board for the power module.
This will account for about 1/4 of board real estate.
The main line and ground wire in the box
The installed power Jack will be connected to two-
Position the screw terminal block, starting here, the forward input voltage will go to polyfuse, then to the 1N4001 diode, then filter the capacitor, and finally to the paddle that selects the appropriate regulator
* We will keep one connector bar for each Vcc and ground rail at the top and bottom of the board--
Four in total.
The power rail will get a 100 uF electrolytic capacitor and several.
1 uF ceramic cap for filtration.
* There is also a central power supply for the paddle switch-off position.
The rest of the board is used for the ATMega328 and related components.
Of course, \'328\' will be embedded in it, and we will use crystals instead of resonance cavities.
There will be a programming head--either a 6-
A variety of pin heads, or bends--
For redundancy, or both.
At this point, it might be helpful to sketch on quadrille or engineering notepad paper.
Unlike solderable breadboards, the peeling boards have a series of non-welded breadboards on their copper side
Channel.
Building a project on a stripboard requires more planning than a traditional board, but it allows for a more dense and efficient layout of parts.
The usual practice is to position and weld the assembly in each functional part, and then bring the separated conductive path through the cutting strip.
Cutting can be done with a sharp blade, a drill bit of the appropriate size, or a cutting disc of a rotating tool.
I prefer the last method.
Warning: please always wear eye mask when using a cutting disc with a rotating tool.
The disk has a tendency to break, and the debris flies in all directions.
If your naked eyes are on a path of flying debris, then you will understand the real meaning of \"fooling around.
See the schematic and pictorial for building this section.
Of course, you need to judge how to follow these instructions closely with your own judgment (
There is more than one path to the destination! ). A 9 -12 volt (DC)
Wall with 2.
The 1mm male coaxial plug of 2 will be connected.
1mm female coaxial power Jack installed on our project box.
We will connect the positive and ground terminals of the Jack to 2-
Locate the screw junction box on the Hackett board.
Therefore, the screw junction box is the first terminal to locate and weld at the edge of the power section of the circuit board.
Weld the positive and ground pins of the Screw terminal block to the circuit board and connect the ground pin to the ground bus band through the adjacent holes on its belt. With a fine-
Prompt for black marking, marking the positive, ground input terminals of the screw block.
This can avoid confusion (and mistakes)later.
On the same edge of the board, but in another corner, position the paddle switch.
There are three positions in this switch, we will use Left for 5 v, Center for Off, Right for 3. 3v.
Press the pin of the switch down into the corresponding hole on the board, but just solder a pin to fix it in place.
When we have other connections with the switch, we will weld the rest of the pins.
Now, go back to the screw junction box.
The positive pin is connected to one pin of polyfuse.
This is a component that looks like a small capacitor, but its function is to protect everything in the circuit by stopping conduction current when overheating, such as the current draw in case of short or too high.
Automatically reset when cooling after power failure.
Think of it as a reset fuse.
The connection of Polyfuse to the positive pole (non-banded)
Terminal of 1N4001 diode.
The diode protects the circuit from input power with reverse polarity.
The diode is connected to 100 uF and two input capacitors. 1 uF.
These filters generate ripple in the input power and must be rated at a voltage of 16 volts or higher.
If 12 V Wall voltage is used, the rated voltage should be 25 v.
Please note the polarity of the 100 uF electrolytic capacitor. The .
A uf hat may not bepolarized.
The ribbon end of the diode and the positive pin of the capacitor are connected to the center pole of the switch.
With the Ohm function of the multi-tester, you can calculate the function of each switch terminal.
The switch also has two poles.
An In terminal connected to 7805 (5-volt)
Another voltage regulator and 1117-In terminal3. 3 (3. 3-volt)
Voltage regulator.
The ground terminals of each regulator are connected to the ground bus.
The Out terminals of the two regulators are connected together and connected to the Vcc bus (see schematic).
This seems to be a strange state, the Out terminal of the switch
The Off regulator is still connected to the Vcc, but this does not damage it because when its input is disconnected, its interior passes through the transistor and the associated resistor to prevent it from conducting currents that exceed the trickle.
At the output of the power supply, we have a second set of 100 uF and.
1 uF capacitor for filtration.
These only need to be rated 10 v.
Finally, there is a color LED--red is nice --
Indicates that the power is on.
1k Ohm current required for LED-
Limit the resistance to prevent excessive and burnt current.
After welding, pass through the guide strip on the welding side of the circuit board as needed to isolate the assembly group.
Reference schematic diagram.
Now, we will have a preliminary test of the power supply part.
First, do a visual check?
Do you see any shorts or something wrong?
If not, continue. Connect a 9 -
12 V Wall ribbon 2.
The input power jack of our board has a 1mm coaxial output plug.
Flip the paddle switch to the 5v position.
Is the indicator light on the board on?
If not, power off immediately and re-check if there is an incomplete cut on the welded bridge and guide strip on the board.
If the LED is lit, then keep the power supply long enough to measure the voltage with a multi-tester from Vcc to ground bus. All okay?
If so, then repeat the test for 3.
3v position of the switch.
To make sure, flip the switch back and forth several times.
Test if the center position of the switch turns off the power supply as expected.
If the power supply part works as specified, we can proceed to the next step.
Next, we will refer to the schematic diagram of the main circuit and the corresponding picture.
We keep the rest of the board for the atmega328.
Positioning 28-
\'3/4\' pin socket * about 328 apart from the two regulators and switches, centered on the width of the board.
Pin for welding socket.
Now, cut off two 14-
The sale of female headlines.
Arrange each on both sides of 28
Pin IC socket, arranged evenly with both ends of the socket (see pictures).
Welding the pins of these belts.
* 28-there are two varietiespin IC sockets.
In this project, we used a narrow chip to hold an ATMega328 chip.
Now is the time to place and connect basic \'328 support components.
But first let\'s Connect Vcc and ground to pins 7 and 8 of 28-respectivelypin IC socket. A .
1 uF capacitors are located between these two pins to handle power spikes.
Pin 20 is connected to Vcc and pin 22 is connected to ground-
These are for the simulation part of \'328. Pin 1 (Reset)
In \'328, for reliable operation, we need to connect the pin 1 of the IC socket to the Vcc track through a 10k resistor.
The 16 MHz crystal is from pin 9 to pin 10 of the IC socket.
The two pins also have a 22 pF capacitor ground.
This will provide a 16 MHz clock for the \'328.
As an alternative, you can install a 16 MHz Oscillator instead of a crystal.
Resonator does not need a capacitor, but for Microtiming.
Finally, we will connect the LED of the socket Pin 19 through 1k current-
Limit resistance grounding.
This will be the infamous D13 (SCK)blinking LED.
We will include a 3-
Use the plug as a switch to enable/disable this LED.
After welding, pass through the guide strip on the welding side of the circuit board as needed to isolate the assembly group.
Reference schematic diagram. Whew!
We\'re almost over.
Now let\'s see if our habino really works.
First, check all welding connections to make sure the cut on the copper strip is clean and there is no line bridge.
Use Ohm settings on a multi-tester or Continuity tester as needed.
Program the ATMega 328 chip with the Blink program on the working Arduino.
If the hardware works properly, this sketch will flash the LED at D13.
Now take \'328 out of the Arduino carefully, if there is a chip to pull pul, or with a small straight-
Screwdriver.
Plug \'328 into the socket on our board. (
Power must be cut! )
Make sure the pin 1 of the chip is aligned with the pin 1 of the socket, and the pin of the chip is not bent when you press it.
Take a deep breath.
Connect the plug of the wall rail to the power jack of the circuit board.
Flip the switch to a 5v position.
Power LED lights?
Is the D13 LED flashing?
If so, congratulate yourself and switch the switch to 3.
3v position and repeat the test.
If there is any problem, check the soldering side of the board for shorts and errors.
Don\'t sweat if things don\'t work for the first time.
Troubleshoot, fix and try again.
The 328 chip can be inserted back (
I did it at least once! )
While this may shorten its life, it may survive for a year or two.
Anyway, holes-
Cheap enough to replace with the \'328 chip--
Only three or four dollars per person.
Credit: the illustrations for this section are used here with the permission of photographer/artist Stefan Krause, which was issued under the FAL Free Art License.
Reference: Introduce the schematic diagram and picture of this step again.
We need to add a reset switch and a programming head.
Vcc, grounding, and some of the assorted mother headlines that may be used for one or two digital IO pins may also be good.
Enabling/disabling jumpers for D13 LED will certainly be useful.
First, let\'s build a socket for the 5110 display.
This display has a total of 8 pins, so we need two 8-
The mother\'s pin festival.
These will be installed together as a month-
The pin part will be the actual socket to insert the display, and the adjacent socket will be used to connect the wires from the \'328 chip-
Power and signal lines.
Position the two row titles down about 1/4 \"from the CPU slot \"(
See pictures).
Fix the head in place using several dabs adhesive putty, then flip the plate and weld them. Mount the mini-pushbutton (reset)
Switch in convenient position near the edge of the board farthest from the power supply part.
Make sure that the buttons are easily accessible even after the 5110 display is plugged into the socket.
Before installing the button, use the resistance setting of the multi-tester to determine the internal connection mode of the pin (Two sets).
One terminal of the switch is connected to pin 1 of the \'328 socket (RESET)
Another bus to the groundMount a (bent)6-
According to its schematic diagram, the pin programming head at the far end of the board.
The pin is grounded. C.
*, Vcc, Tx, Rx, and DTR.
The DTR is connected via a to pin 1 of the IC socket. 1 uF capacitor.
You can choose to add 6-in parallel-
Pin female head and/or (straight)6-
Pin the head, if the project is installed in a small box, it can be easily contacted vertically. * N. C.
= There is no connection, we are now Vcc, ground, maybe one or two of the \'328 digital pins add the parent headline of the extra access point.
Install these components so that they do not interfere with other components on the board.
Power the circuit board.
Is the power LED on?
Is the D13 indicator flashing?
Well, it\'s nice to know that we didn\'t make any major mistakes or mess up anything at the last step.
Connect the programming cable or the FTDI splitter board to the programming head we just installed.
Connect it to the USB port of the laptop and start the arduino IDE.
Extract the BlinkWithoutDelay sketch from example/2.
Digital Menu and change _ interval _(blink rate)
Parameters 200.
This will cause the D13 LED to flash five times per second.
Now, try uploading the sketch.
Does the upload work?
Does the LED start to flash fast?
If everything is OK so far, we can do the last Test.
Unplug the motherboard cable from your laptop and find the Nokia 5110 display.
This is the small monochrome screen used in the previous generation of mobile phones.
It can make a figure of thick lines, showing six lines of text.
Most importantly, there is a good Arduino library (
PCD8544 library of Adafruit)
For text and graphics of 5110.
A test sketch is included in the library package.
Connect a line of the ready socket with the right cord: Pin 7-
Serial clock output (SCLK)pin 6 -
Serial data output (DIN)pin 5 -
Data/command selection (D/C)pin 4 -
LCD chip selection (CS)pin 3 -LCD reset (RST)
The other three pins are used for Vcc *, ground and backlight.
Note that the 5110 display does not have a standard pin, so you need to pay attention to the label of the pin on a particular unit.
The sketch can be changed to allow alternate wiring on the socket. PCD8544 ---
> X * Please note that about 5110 monitors work best on about 2 monitors. 9 volts. A 100-
The ohm resistance from the display Power pin to the Vcc bus handles this well.
The other 5110 monitors work at odd voltage between 3. 8 an 4. 5 bolts.
I find these almost useless unless combined with a levelshifter.
Also some, the metal sheet on the back needs to be tightened.
After the wiring line of the socket is completed, insert the display.
Reconnect the motherboard to the laptop with a programming cable.
Upload an example from Arduino 5110 to the motherboard (PCD8544)
Library packageDoes it work?
After the event, I added a miniature panel voltmeter to Hackett.
It is mounted on a stand and fixed on a mounting hole with machine screws.
These meters are cheap, and this extra Touch offers bold visuals
Check the voltage of Hackett operation.
It would be nice if Atmel tested their holes
Through the 328 chip in 3.
After 3 v, put it on the market.
They can even charge a slight premium for 328 seconds of 3 point certification.
3 v, many people will be happy to pay.
I believe Intel used to do something similar with their CPU chips, but that\'s another day\'s story.
I have added many Nokia 5110 monitors to the project.
When they work, they are a good alternative to the 2x16 LCD display, and they run well at 3.
3v with low current consumption.
However, as mentioned earlier, there are several problems with 5110. 1)
There is no standard pint. 2)
The Vcc pins of about 5110s require odd voltage, slightly lower or higher than 3.
Their logic is 3 v. Lower than 3.
3v can be obtained from a 3.
3v system bus with voltage-
Drop resistance. Higher than 3.
3v may be a bit of a problem.
What will I do differently next time: 1)
For \'328, use the ZIF socket instead of the standard IC socket. 2)
In addition to the 5110 socket, add a socket for the 16x2 LCD display.
It\'s great to have a choice. 3)Have 5 and 3.
Regardless of the power switch position, there is a 3 V bus available.
So, what is the use of Hackett running at 3 points. 3 volts?
OK guys, first of all, you can connect it directly to Raspberry Pi or Beaglebone Black via the serial line.
Alternatively, you can attach it to a powerful Ohm cover leather counter like I did.
Most importantly, 3 is required for many sensors, peripherals, and displays.
3 V, so Hackett can connect directly to them without the need for level
Pad hardware.
I did build the second Hackett with most of the features discussed in the previous step.
Please note the ZIF socket for the ATMega328 and all universal plugs
Used in sockets for breakout boards, modules, sensors, etc.
Another change I made was that the D13 LED was not wired from the D13, so was able to connect to any digital port.
I built it on a archer 276.
The radio cabin sold 153 bare metal PC boards decades ago.
As for the rest, well, most of them are spare parts that I have placed.
So, let\'s call it odds. n-Ends-Duino.
The second photo shows the Nokia 5110 display that is plugged in and connected, as well as the anAdafruit GPS breakout board. It works great! ---
The third and fourth photos show my Mark III Hackett, the title of which is subject to the standard Arduino shield.
One pan is continuously adjustable from 2v to 5. 5v.
It also features pins at the bottom of the plate, suitable for prototyping and experimenting with the insertion of solder-free breadboards.
Of course, it also has such a \"standard\" add-onOns, like on-
Board piezoelectric buzzer and 8x2 universal-
Use head for inserting Nokia 5110 display or SD card breakout board.
The last photo is another variant of Hackett, which is built on the old blank board I put in the junk box.
This one looks more rough than my other Hacs because I have to do more improvisation
Connect the power bus.
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